Today, I’m back to reviewing some perfumes! It’s time to review some – now slightly old already – offerings from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab – the three Zoryas from the American Gods Collection. I won’t get into much detail about the collection because I already mentioned it in my review of Eostre of the Dawn, so let’s plunge straight into the battle!
The Battle of the BPAL Zoryas
Zorya Utrennyaya, Zorya Vechernyaya and Zorya Polunochnaya are three sisters – goddesses from Slavic mythology, as described in Neil Gaiman’s book American Gods. Curiously, only the first two appear in Slavic myths, whereas Zorya Polunochnaya was supposedly created by Gaiman for his novel.
Zorya Utrennyaya represents the Morning Star, Zorya Vechernyaya is the Evening Star and Zorya Polunochnaya is the Midnight Star, so you can guess that each Zorya has her own character and a perfume corresponding to it.
Sweet black coffee and a touch of ambrette seed.
It’s morning; the sun shines brightly but you can wake up only after you’ve had your cup of coffee. You like it black but very sweet – so sweet that a sugar lump remains on the bottom of your coffee cup. Today’s coffee is no different.
You take your time to sip on your sweet, smooth coffee. The smoothness, provided by the ambrette seed, adds some complexity to an otherwise simple scent of your cuppa. As time wears on, the soft ambrette seed, laced with sweet coffee, becomes less obvious. Behind remains the same old scent that you’ve always liked.
Verdict: KEEP. Zorya Utrennyaya has a good throw. I can say it’s a bit more intense than I expected. I like it very much and it will come in handy when I’d rather stay in bed than jump out of it.
You can buy Zorya Utrennyaya here for $28.
Red musk and wild plum, orange blossom and jasmine, juniper berries, sweet incense and vetiver-laced sandalwood.
The evening brings on a heavier scent. The red musk and orange blossom, paired with a scattering of juniper berries, make this scent seem wintery, too.
The orange blossom, sweet incense and plum swirl into a sweet and juicy aroma that’s different from what I smell in the vial. It’s not as wintery anymore but the juniper berries come forth again as the perfume starts drying down. It makes me think of walking through a snowed-in forest. Once it’s fully dry, it slides into a slight pencil shavings territory because the sandalwood finally comes through. I’m not sure if vetiver really is there but it could be represented by that “green aroma” hanging out with the sandalwood.
Verdict: DESTASH. The throw is rather low and thus suitable for the office. However, I don’t think I like it enough to keep it.
You can buy Zorya Vechernyaya here for $28.
Pale amber and ambergris, gossamer vanilla, moonflower, and white tobacco petals.
If the evening ended up on a below-average note, the middle of the night promises more. Unusually awake, you could stargaze until the sun rose. I’m greeted by the vanillic ambergris and a small, delicate moonflower that is, in my opinion, a lovely night-time note.
As the perfume hits the skin, the vanilla and ambergris are warmed up by the amber, while the moonflower gives the blend a gentle floral quality. This scent is not obviously floral but rather a balanced mix of all these different notes. In my opinion, it gets as close to those typical mainstream, alcohol-based perfumes as possible because it starts out sharp but it does mellow out with time. As it dries, the perfume acquires a nearly buttery quality, although it remains cold, sweet and floral.
Verdict: KEEP. I really like this scent; it’s actually one of my favourite vanilla perfumes!
You can buy Zorya Polunochnaya here for $28.
Which Zorya is your favourite?